Amber Valley in Switzerland - continued.

 Saying goodbye to Martin in Zinal, we climbed steeply through trees to reach the foot of yet another pass called the Forcletta at 8,600 feet.We had ascended 3,700 feet from Zinal but helpful zigzags had aided the steep climb and we  reached the summit by midday. Peering down the rocky glen all looked stony and barren but, as we descended into the quiet Turtmental valley, we were rewarded with a marvellous view of the north ridge of the snow covered Weisshorn and alongside a huge glacier which took us by surprise. Lower in the valley, we strolled over green pastures with a lovely,beckoning view of the village of Gruben. Here we stayed at a rustic,wooden old guesthouse which served us a wholesome meal and proved to be the cheapest so far. Gruben is a charming backwater, although  we probably saw it at its best in this bright summer sunshine and maybe in winter it is more austere, being in a typical Swiss high-sided valley and without the trappings of being a ski resort.This is where we switched from French speaking Switzerland into the German.

 Day 12 - Gruben to St Niklaus

We all have memories of favourite walks but this day ranks as my perfect day. I knew from a previous visit that this was to be special and the guidebooks rate this day as having the best views in the Swiss alps. From what I have seen around these mountains I would agree as nothing could diminish the pleasure from the scenery we enjoyed. Thoughts of cost and exchange rates were forgotten - it was simply a privilege to be here.

The ascent to the Augustbordpass - an old trade route - involves a climb of 3,500 feet but it is achieved almost without noticing because of the distraction of the views all around. We sat on the pass admiring  the mountains facing us. The Monte Rosa, Liskamm,the ever present Weisshorn, the Mischabel range over in the Saas valley and a tantalising glimpse of the Aletsch glacier and, in the distance, the Reid glacier ,upon which we were to have some excitement later. But we knew there was more to come so we pressed on further ignoring hunger pangs in eager anticipation to reach the classic viewpoint called Twara.  It was here that we slumped onto a grassy knoll to absorb the view. The whole of the Mattertal valley and its snow capped mountains stretch ahead, although the Matterhorn is tucked away out of sight behind the Mettelhorn up valley. It was interesting to see the expression of our fellow walkers as they turned this corner and immediately gasped in admiration at the view confronting them before sitting down to try and take it all in. So a delayed and long lunch hour followed here before moving off to the exquisite, tiny and lofty hamlet of Jungen where we enjoyed a planned thrilling cable car ride down to the floor of the valley at St Niklaus. This was planned to avoid what is a knee crunching descent of about 2,000 feet through trees.

We joined other l'Haute walkers for an evening meal,al fresco in the warm evening,discussing the sights of the day and options for tomorrow.This was a delightful end to a perfect day's walking .

 Day 13 - St Niklaus to the Bordier hut and Reid glacier

We had been warned of a rockfall near the Europa hut en route to Zermatt so cancelled our booking. Instead, I had the bright idea (so accept any blame!) of finishing our walk at the Bordier hut, which sits on a rocky bluff overlooking the Reid glacier (at about 9,500 feet) which we had seen from afar yesterday.The climb to the glacier begins in earnest from Gasenreid and proved to be a  test of stamina and endurance as we ascended 4,000 feet in the afternoon's hot sunshine .As we got closer to the glacier, it began to look quite a wild and rather savage area with acres of hanging ice and we were puzzled for a while where the crossing point was, in order to reach the hut . Eventually we found it and crossed on its tacky and gritty surface without difficulties following a flagged route over. At the edge of the ice, there is a cruel climb up to the hut over rocks aided by fixed ropes and a set of ladders. We were very tired and relieved to be there.

The Bordier hut is an old fashioned, traditional hut and distinctly atmospheric (outside toilets and washing facilities!)and you feel is full of history. Today it was full of climbers excitedly chatttering about their climb of the Nadelhorn and the crevasses on the upper reaches of the Reid glacier and their plans for climbing the Balfrin tomorrow. The fact that we had just walked from Chamonix seemed a modest claim so we kept quiet. After an excellent dinner, we were treated to a visit by a family of ibex who come every evening to lick salt off the rocks which surround the hut. They were oblivious to us and the cameras were on overtime. 

Day 14 - Bordier hut and Reid glacier to St Niklaus (and train journey to Geneva)

We decided to leave the hut for the return glacier crossing at 8 am in order to catch a mid afternoon train to Geneva. But we were in for a rude shock! Early morning sun had not yet reached our route across the glacier and the few steps we took were far too dangerous on its glass-like surface. Without crampons a crossing was impossible. So we had a hurried consultation and decided to wait for the rising sun to move around the broad bulk of the Balfrin and hope that eventually it would shine forth and produce a gritty surface safe to walk upon. So we sat and sat in a state of carpe diem for two hours while the sun obligingly moved around and did its work. We took our first tentative steps on the ice and inched our way across. What had appeared flat yesterday now had slopes and ascents - never have walking poles been so essential as here as we dug them into the ice, leaned heavily on them and made them work overtime. Rivelets of water now streamed over the ice in places as the sun strengthened and we kept as close as possible to the flagged route over, avoiding the gaping crevasses way down on our right which form the bergschrund at the edge of the glacier and mountain side, which was definitely a no-go area for us.However, once off the glacier and over the dodgy moraine wall which splits it into two sections, it was with relief and the knowledge that our journey was coming to an end that we savoured the 3-hour walk back down valley.

We took a train to Geneva at 4 o'clock and arrived in a hot and humid city rather overcome by the hustle and bustle of normal everyday life and went to the hostel where we were staying. A notice pinned to the wall here informed us that the chef was on holiday and apologised for any inconvenience caused. But we were too tired to be bothered and sufficed with a beer by the shore of Lake Geneva in the company of the cosmopolitan hoi polloi. Later we shared a dormitory with three Japanese, one of whom was sat upright doing his yen(?) at 6 am. This was an unusual and amusing way for me to be awakened in the morning.

 We caught the 10.20 am flight back to East Midlands. This had been a memorable trip dominated by those magnificent mountains along the way and the many climbs up to passes with their remarkable views - all enhanced by kind weather. We had met some interesting people also, as you tend to on treks like this . Kindred spirits with an appreciation of this kind of adventure immersed in mountains such as these. It had been  a journey of an estimated 110 miles and 40,000 feet of ascent .

So, secretly sitting barefoot on the flight back home, those boots had earned a rest. Until the next time.

Gerry

August 2011